Thursday, July 29, 2010

Recovering in LA, and no, I am not in rehab.

It has been a very chill week in LA, both temperature-wise and sightseeing-wise. I am enjoying myself immensely, but have to admit, I did NOT bring warm enough clothes for these weather shenanigans. The early part of the week was overcast, which was fine because I spent our second day here in bed with food poisoning. AVOID the italian restaurant near the convention centre.

By mid-week, I managed to wander to the fabulously cheap and delicious downtown LA Grand Central Market for lunch, attend a reception with Jim of GVU grads from Georgia Tech, which was fun, but terribly cold, on the Westin pool deck. I met really interesting and successful, happy grads who now work for Dreamworks, Pixar and Disney doing incredible things. It made me wish I had the fortitude and foresight to study computer science. ah well, water under that bridge now, but maybe i can make a contribution with IP law? who knows what the future will bring?

Since I was feeling better, I hit the gym early in the morning yesterday before visiting Culver City. CC is located in West-Central-Southern LA and is made of studios, hotels and old warehouses that have now been transformed into snazzy furniture outlets, lofts and galleries. I caught a film being made near the Culver Hotel and was actually asked politely to move out of the shot when they started filming. The Culver hotel was originally owned by John Wayne, according to my guide book, and it housed the munchkins and Judy Garland during the filming of Wizard of Oz over at Culver City Studios. After absorbing the atmosphere, I headed to Santa Monica State beach for a couple hours. I packed a picnic lunch from Trader Joe's. I wish we had these in Canada. They are basically like large scale herb n spices where you can buy healthy, preservative-free and fair trade products. Thanks to Rob for introducing me to them! They have transformed the way I eat when I travel., which is an immensely good thing. You can only eat so much McDonald's or subway, and after watching Food, Inc, I don't think I can do either again....

After Culver City, I zipped (and when I say Zipped, I actually mean crawled along the highway: welcome to LA where rush hour traffic is EVERY hour!. I don't actually mind. It gave me time to catch up on my Spanish by listening to the local radio) to the Getty Centre. I saw a fantastic exhibition by an artist of whom I had never heard, but who was ahead of his time by mass manufacturing his works of art in nineteenth century France. J-L Gerome was his name. He used photography to inspire and achieve feats of precision in his paintings, especially of Oriental patterns in Turkish architecture. It felt like you were standing in the room, or in the Forum with his subjects. He also made paintings of his sculptures in progress, or vice versa, would sculpt some of the subjects in his paintings to scale and then miniaturize them in bronze and sell them to the rapidly increasing bourgeoisie in France who were looking to adorn their homes with classical sculpture.

The second exhibit I saw was about documentary photographers. I saw the work of Larry Towell, a Canadian who photographed migrant mennonites who settled in Ontario because of falling water tables in Mexico had pushed them off their land. I also saw Lauren Greenfield's Girl Culture photos, which were jarring and sparked much conversation of onlookers about adolescent girl culture and how fast girls grow up today.

The best part about the Getty is not their exhibitions, although they are often unlike anything I ever see elsewhere, but the view of Los Angeles near sunset. The air feels fresh above that mountaintop away from the hustle and flow of the freeway, away from the corporate centre of Downtown on this beautiful, generous oasis of art and architecture.

My energy restored and feeling slightly hungry, I drove to West Hollywood and avoided outgoing traffic to see a silent film and grab a bite. The film was sold out and my persistence of being put on the waiting list early was lucky (successful?) and I got a ticket. I found a hole in the wall pizza joint near Fairfax and struck up conversation with another girl who had also ordered a slice and root beer. She was tickled I invited her to sit at my table and we talked about dating, work, and spirituality. She works as a frame designer and LOVES her job. She told me the most intersting things she ever framed were a piece of a wall on which a mother had traced her child's growth. The contractors had to remove the wall for her. The other thing was a pair of 1920s original posters that someone had found and purchased on E-bay for 500 but which were worth 20-30,000 dollars. Turns out, they guy was pissed off he couldn't get a frame for no more than 100$! I learned a lot goes into framing and was tickled to have the opportunity to learn from my dinner companion.

I have been reading Neill Strauss' The Game. It is a great conversation opener because it looks like a Bible and people are always curious and ask me about it. WHile chatting at the pizza joint, this guy asked me how it was. I thoguht he was talking about the pizza and I said, it was great! Then he said either don't worry or it worked for me (I couldn't make it out), and held up his wedding ring. I realized he wasn't talking about pizza. I laughed and I would have loved to have chatted about his experience, but he was gone before I could invite him to sit down with me and my dinner companion.

The silent movie that night was Metropolis. Usually at the Silent movie theatre on Fairfax there is live musical accompaniment. Last night, however, the pianist was AWOL, so canned music it was. Apparently, in 2008, unseen uncut original footage was found in Buenos Aires. It was promptly restored and was screened in Germany last February. There was much hype, as you can imagine in Tinseltown, to see the uncut version. It was touched beautifully. The story was sort of compelling and if I hadn't been freezing in the theatre I might have stayed to see the second half. I guess I felt like I was missing something that everyone else had gotten. I felt badly that I couldn't relate or appreciate it on a more whole scale. I was also disappointed that the live music wasn't there, too, so maybe I shouldn't beat myself up too much: I had expected one thing and was disappointed. Fair contractual transaction to pull out before I sink more of my limited time.

Today I will check out MOCA and meet up with Gabe, Montica and Jim to see Inception. I am mostly looking forward to the talkback with Montica. As a film major and experienced director, she has so much knowledge to share. I love talking about art and movies post-movie, anyways, and doing it in Movietown is even more enriching when surrounded by people who know what they are talking about. Tomorrow Gabe, Jim and I are going to Venice Beach before Gabe catches his plane back to lovely London.

A relaxing, reflective week in bustling Los Angeles.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Charleston, Charleston, Everybody loves Charleston!



The air is warm and balmy, Palm trees line boulevards populated with whimsically coloured houses, Palmetto bugs (a nicer name for cockroaches) appear frequently (I confess I only saw one, thankfully), and everyone is warm and friendly. The entire town is a historical site, having been built and rebuilt after earthquakes, hurricanes, all nearly to scale to their original 18th and 19th century grandeur. There is a sizable French population in Charleston, too, so I unexpectedly happily chatted with Francophone store and gallery owners.

We spent 2 days in Charleston, SC visiting our friend, Abner Calhoun Witham Jr. (Cali for short), whose family has lived in Charleston for several generations. Charleston was founded in the 17th century as a main trading port to the Caribbean. It is famed for encounters with Blackbeard, Bonnet, sailors, jazz musicians, the slave trade, and its strategic role in the Revolutionary, Civil and Second World Wars.

We were graciously invited to a dinner party the night we arrived after our nine hour drive from D.C. Breakfasts were at Gaulard et Maliclet, aka Fast and French to the locals, where we dined on fresh chocolate or ham/cheese croissants and strong coffee. We wandered the old streets popping into shops, galleries and restored historic sites. We had lunch at the Blind Tiger, a famous former speakeasy. It was transporting to walk through the jazz age, full of flappers, pearls, illegal liquor and dancing. Last night I had my first mint julep with dinner and it was refreshing and divine!

Our day of historic sightseeing was topped off with a drive in a red 1970 convertible volkswagen out to an island for fresh seafood and grits. Delicious and so much fun! Wind in our hair, friends all around - it was like being transported to another era!

Yesterday, we treated ourselves to a day at Folly Beach. We picked up fresh fruits and vegetables on our way and spent the day in the warm salty Atlantic waters. Heaven! After a long nap we dressed up for dinner and wandered around to East Bay st. area for dinner at Magnolia's and followed it up with live Brazilian jazz at the Charleston Grill. Jim and I are having a great time visiting such romantic spots and reconnecting with wonderful friends.

More from the South to come! Stay tuned!

Saturday, July 3, 2010

E pluribus unum: Welcome to D.C.


We continue our Constitutional adventure in the capital - Capitol Hill, actually! - in time for Independence Day! Happy early Independence Day to all the Americans I know and love.

D.C. has two initials and one word: Grandeur. I learned that the District of Columbia was formed by George Washington to prevent any single colony or state from feeling favoritism or animosity in response to perceived favoritism. This metropolis is at the forefront of the continuing legacy of independence and is a symbol of freedom to so many, as reflected in its architecture and declarations.

Yesterday, thanks to my friend, Lucas Ballet, we had a guided tour of Capitol Hill given generously by Rosalie Abbott, an intern to Senator Begich of Alaska. We saw the House of Representatives, the old Supreme Court which sat inside the Capitol building for the first fifty years, the Statuary where states donate statues of influential people in their histories. Afterwards, we walked to the White House, napped in front of the Washington Monument, and made the pilgrimage to the Vietnam memorial, the Korea Memorial, the Reflecting Pool and finally, the Lincoln Memorial, which was the most moving. Lincoln's passion to abolish slavery and keep the Union together was a difficult political path to say the least, but one that legally changed this country forever and narrowed the double standard in the interpretation of the Constitution. It was breathtaking to look over at sunset across the reflecting Pool to Capitol Hill. The beauty of the Mall is not the White House - it is dwarfed in comparison to the buildings that represent equal separate powers: Judicial, Executive and Legislative, and by the persistence of memory of the values on which this country is founded as enshrined by the surrounding edifices: Jefferson and the Declaration of Independence, The Constitution and Bill of Rights, Lincoln's Gettysburg Address. these buildings represent memories about the virtues of representation, the right to representation, the dignity of representation of living and deceased citizens. The Capitol building itself, burned two years after it was completed, represents an unparalleled determination to build a nation.

When in Rome... Our friend and former housemate, Anastasia, recently moved to D.C. and invited us to dance at a free jazz concert in the Mall near the Smithsonian (the Mall is the land that stretches across Capitol hill and the monuments, not a shopping centre!). It was packed and a beautiful evening. Jim and i salsa danced near the band and had a great time. It was a great way to unwind after a very moving day.

After breakfast with our friend and host, Rob Orr, we met up with Anastasia and all of us went to the Corcoran Gallery of Art. There was a Muybridge exhibit of photographs taken in the 19th century and a Chuck Close exhibit of his printmaking and utensils. What a genius! It was a great change of pace and allowed me to soak in the art from a museum that I have heard so much about! We had a late lunch and then our guidebook had a walking tour of Georgetown, which is not close by, so we hopped in the car and toured around the quaintest neighbourhood in the nation's capital! the high street has many shops, but we savoured the architecture, the idiosyncratic mansions and had so much fun spending time with each other. Fondest memories include opera impersonations near a cemetary of a youtube video, Jim,s endless puns and jokes.

We will probably avoid the crowds tomorrow and bid farewell to D.C., a beautiful city of grandeur and grander memories spent in the company of friends.



Monday, June 28, 2010

Day 2 in NYC: A hundred degrees on the street and on stage!

Day 2 in NYC. It feels like a hundred degrees. It was about 80 at 10am. We hit the ground running this morning, like the thousands of runners we met in Central Park raising money for disability awarenes. We are a few blocks from Central Park and a GRRRRRRREAT bagel place, called Absolute Bagel, so we started there with the world's biggest most tasty bagel and then walked around the North end of Central Park. We had planned to go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, but had to put that off (for this trip entirely, possibly, since it's not open tomorrow and we leave on Tuesday...) because the half priced ticket joint in Times Sq opened at 11. We walked to TS and then waited an hour in the hot but friendly line to obtain tickets to FELA, a story about a subversive Nigerian artist living in Nigeria from 1960s-1990s and how his music influenced and reflected the very bloody politics of the time.

The show had great dancing and music, but the second half sort of went on a tangent away from the story. The show had us up and dancing at certain points, which was fun, but sometimes confusing because one never knew quite how involved one could get in the performance: the audience/performer line was a bit unclear. Overall, the voices were immaculate and the format was like you were an audience member in Fela's walled and barbwired music club in Lagos. The set was amazing!

We lunched at Olympic Diner, a very cute Greek restaurant in Midtown with a family feel, full of locals and tourists, before the show and were happy to seek refuge from the heat for 2 hours to catch a piece of art unlike anything that has ever been on Broadway, let alone like anything playing anywhere else in the world. It's all about local tastes this first trip to NYC!

Now we're back cooling off and getting ready for a lovely dinner at home with our hostess, Wesley and her adorable cavalier king charles spaniel, Beatrice.

Dinner was tasty and fun! Joseph, Wesley's brother, came over to celebrate his birthday with his partner, Matt. Wesley made this fabulous cordon bleu chicken dinner with lovely appetizers and desserts: tantalizing tastes! Matt and Joseph invited us to their place downtown afterwards to show us the view from their condo near Park Ave. It was gorgeous! The whole city sparkled. So sweet and generous of Wesley, Joseph and Matt to welcome us so warmly!

Once Matt and Joseph found out we wanted to go swing dancing, they made some quick phone calls to their friends for some recs because our internet searches were spotty and somewhat fruitless. The first one came up and Jim and I were off on the subway to midtown to Swing 46 - Jazz and Supper Club. What a delight! There was a full live band, no cover and the dance floor was pretty unoccupied. The only other couple who joined us on the dance floor at first turned out to be the swing dancers who taught the lesson an hour before we arrived. They were charming! We invited them to our table and before we knew it, there were six of us enthusiasts up dancing.

These kind of spontaneous interactions often bring endearing and affirming networks of friends together. One of the dancers who joined us a bit later was Alex, originally from Vancouver, who actually knew my friend, Nardia, who introduced me to swing dancing years ago. What are the chances of that in a city the size of New York, let alone a continent the size of North America? It was a great connection to make and we hope we get the chance to visit each other again soon, once our respective lives and travels settle down a bit.

At the end of the night, we collapsed into a yellow cab and made our way home uptown happy and tired from a fabulous day of newly discovered friends in North America's largest city.

First day in NYC - June 26



We left Newark around 3:00 pm. We found out the difference between 99th street and W 99th St. the hard way: one is in Brooklyn, the other in Manhattan. People were super friendly and helpful, and we saw a quaint corner of Brooklyn in the process! What would we do without GPS and cell phones? I don't know. So, a 40 minute trip from Newark to Manhattan took us about two hours, with traffic and tolls. The trip was lovely, though!




We are staying in Manhattan on the Upper West Side, thanks to the generous hospitality of Jim's friend, Wesley. She showed us around the neighbourhood and we took her out to dinner at her local favourite Sushi place.



We were pooped from running around with kids and waking up early this morning, so we decided to call it an early night (it's twenty to midnight and I am still typing/uploading photos :S) and we'll hit the ground running from Times Square tomorrow morning, NY bagel in hand.

Saturday, June 26, 2010

Newark, NJ

This road trip is a chance for Jim and me to connect to friends we have not seen in a very long time. The first friend we stopped to visit was Alexander Schliep, a friend of Jim's. We had a lovely time with him and his family: they opened their home generously and we enjoyed great cuisine and conversation.




The Schliep family is lovely: they have two twin three-year-old boys and they live near a high school with a full sized track and field racetrack. We had a blast running our legs off (and theirs) around the track in the balmy afternoon and early morning. Visiting them was a wonderful way to recharge, re-connect and ground before heading into a buys three days in NYC. Although we only spent one night with them, it was difficult to say goodbye and we hope we see them soon, either here in New Jersey or north of the 49th!

Lake George

It's the first day of summer, a symbolic day in many ways, to start our road trip around the United States. The most beautiful weather is upon us and the feeling of liberation on the open road with the company of my sweet husband, Jim, and our dog, Mrs. Wiggles is great.

The initial purpose of the road trip is for Jim to attend conferences in Atlanta, LA, and Portland. The great thing is that I had time off between adjournment and law school to join him in his travels. Instead of flying, we thought we'd use the extra time to visit friends we have not seen in years. We are heading down the eastern seaboard to Atlanta and then straight across the desert and back up the Pacific Coast where we will catch a flight in Seattle to Indianapolis to visit my sister-in-law's family and their new bundle of joy. Then we'll drive back around the Great Lakes to pick up Mrs. Wiggles where she will have been staying with Jim and Janet during our ten week Homeric adventure.

Our first day started out fabulously until we had car trouble outside of Montreal. A lurching engine kept us waiting in a Canadian Tire parking lot surrounded by nothing but Boston Pizza and big box retail stores for three hours. The wait wasn't that bad: we found a shady spot, took out MRs. Wiggles' portable water bowl and hung out reading under a tree until we needed some lunch. We made it to Lake George by 7:30, a full three and a half hours past our arrival time. I would have loved a swim in the Lake, but it was starting to rain when we arrived.

I just have to say, I love Lake George. It's gorgeous. Some would call the LG Village tacky, but for me it represents all the good natured, innocent small town America I only knew from television. There's the main street (interestingly named Canada street) with its arcade, salt water taffy shops, ice cream parlours, gift shops, banks and boutiques, the high school, the boat launch. Walking around is like being on a movie set. Today we drove through on our way to Elizabeth Island, but tomorrow I hope we wander in and get all dressed up and take Old Time Pictures! The Adirondack Theatre festival is also on, so we are headed to a musical tomorrow night.

When we arrived tonight, Jim's dad, Jim, picked us up at the dock. We managed to get the lurching engine (no, they didn

It's great to be here, surrounded by the warmth and peace of the Lake, and all the wonderful associations and memories I have of falling in love with Jim and his family. A perfect destination to rejuvenate from city life before launching into our Odyssey.

Buck Mountain
Taken August 14, 2008

Stalled!



Our road trip was off to a slow start when car trouble made us detour just outside of Montreal. We were surrounded by big box stores and parking lots where the only place nearby with some shade was a Boston Pizza. Poor Mrs. Wiggles had to wait on the other side of the glassed-in patio. Who puts glass around a patio???




The entire experience was not a loss. The kindness of strangers prevailed and we were back on the road (still with car trouble, mind you) determined to reach our destination, Lake George, before nightfall.